me 1, pacific ocean 0

but it was a close fight. i have been putting off getting into the ocean, for what? a little place where you can wash your feet after you come up from the beach. petty, i know, but i dont like sand on my feet.

so, i dont believe i have ever swam in the pacific ocean, in santa barbara years ago i am sure i dipped my feet, but submerged completely...i dont believe. i have wanted to and have been planning my time. bradley suggested zuma beach but it was too crowded, i thought maybe la but it wasnt very pretty, here i am on the historic 101 mere miles from san diego and a small public beach calls my name.

i turn off and see they have a foot washing station. check. they have public bathroom for changing. check. i ask one of the workers and he says the water is 67 degrees, very agreeable for being in the ocean. i am convinced. i change and head to the water. i wade a while with my shirt on, debating if i should take the plunge. then a typical surfer looking dude comes running from behind me, surfboard in hand and dives right in, swimming out to greet the waves.

i am convinced. i take off my shirt and sunglasses, place them on a cliff ledge, and go for it. at first i am struck by how salty my entire body feels from the water surging around me, it is chilly but more diving evens it out and it becomes normal. i am having fun. running out the the waves and jumping into them, diving under them, letting my body be carried by them.

i start trying to run alongside the waves and let my body ride them, i am moving away from the sanctioned beach area. i run out to a large wave and jump into it. on the other side, my feet cannot touch the ground. i start trying to swim towards shore by there is some force that is pulling me away from the shore. i hear the loudspeaker from the beach, but i cannot understand what it is saying.

i am starting to panic a little bit. i have known someone that died in this ocean. i paddle harder and angle my body so i am not going directly into the current, i am making progress and suddenly i can put my feet on the sandy floor. i look around, proud of making it, and i start to make out what the loudspeaker is saying, i see someone running toward me.

the lifeguard said that i had gotten caught in an ocean river and was being pulled out to sea. when he saw me he ran straight down, the loudspeaker was calling all swimmers to the beach and advising swimmers not to leave the immediate beach area, it is dangerous. i thank the lifeguard profusely. he praises my effort and points me towards the safe area.

shortly after i feel that my experience in the ocean is over for the day, i come up and wash my feet. get my towel and dry off, change in the bathroom and contemplate for a bit.